This week was all about creating our very own In-System Programming (ISP) PCB board. We learned how to mill a PCB board, solder different electronic parts on top of it and flush it with an embedded software.Class notes:
- Use the 1/64'' bit to cut the lines
- Use the 1/32'' to cut the border
- Fixture it by double stick tape
- Make sure the bottom (and the table) is flat
- Print the boards in an efficient way (don't waste space)
- Tap the tip to clean it (not hard because it will break)
- Tighten the tip when its exactly on board (!important)
- After its done, rub the board with a ruler to clean the edges
- Then wash the board and dry it when you're done - seriously!
- Heat, wait a moment and then bring the lead, wait so it spreads, and that's it
- Be sure the parts are oriented correctly - diodes and IC have direction
- Wash the board after you have finished and make sure you dry it afterwards - yes, with all the electronics on it
- Two modes: "View", to replace the material and "Work", to start milling
- To replace between modes, simply press on "View". Green light - View mode, no light - Work mode
- The orange piece on the side of the machine is essential for it to work, if nothing is reacting make sure the orange cap is in place
- To Abort switch to View mode -> kill the process (make sure it's dead) -> press Up + Down.
It should blink. If it doesn't stop blinking, make sure the process is truly dead
- When aborting make sure the process (in the computer) is really dead, otherwise it will not abort
- Settings: -0.12mm Z when doing the inner milling
- Speed: 3.5mm/s
- When cutting out the border, set the speed back to default: 4mm/s
- Cleanup afterwards with the vacuum and use the butter knife to remove the board
- If you're using another FabISP as a programmer, make sure to uncomment the right line in the makefile.Learn from my mistakes, please
I tried to customize the sketch by adding my name and date but as you can see, it didn't work since it was too small.
I used a really annoying lead - it has a green cover, please watch out from it because it was really hard soldering it (or maybe I need to practice more..). Anyway, eventually I ended up using the one with the blue cover.
I took the first ATtiny 44 chip I saw from the huge set of drawers but accidentally didn't notice it was the wrong chip! it's suppose to end with an "A" - ATtiny 44A-SSU
Last stupid thing I did was trying to expose the wires while connecting the wire to the IDC connector - bad bad mistake! you don't have to expose anything, simply press hard on it and it will work like a charm!