JANET LIUHow to Make (almost) Anything

## Group Work Check out [here](http://fab.cba.mit.edu/classes/MAS.863/Harvard/people/nicolofoppiani/Week3/week3.html) for our group work. It looks like the conical bit cuts a lot less clean than the endmill, though after cleaning and sandpapering, both boards looked about the same. At the super thin end of things (.004 and below), the lines weren't super straight or crisp. It seems like .004 might be the limit for clean lines! ## PCB Milling This week, we all started with the same pre-designed PCB board. I used the CNC mill to cut out the traces from a one-sided copper board. There were two bits to use, and two separate tool paths to load in for each bit. The set up was fairly simple, since I just had to put double-sided tape on the board before putting it in the machine and properly calibrating the XYZ of the machine head. However, I actually didn't calibrate the Z axis propery on my first cut, and I didn't fully cut away all of the copper. <figure><img src="../images/full/02/uncut_board.png" width="500"/> </figure> Then, I didn't realize there were two separate tool paths I had to load in for each different bit, so I messed up the first board by using the wrong toolpath on the second endmill. So, I had to redo the entire process on a new board. This time, I pulled the bit down when I tightened it in the machine head, and I properly cut away all of the copper. I also loaded in the right toolpath, and I was left with the fully milled board! There were some unneeded copper traces that were still on the board, so I used a knife to scrape it off and clean up the board a bit. Finally, I sandpapered the board to get rid of some of the burrs, and was left with the fully milled and cleaned up board! <figure><img src="../images/full/02/milled_board.png" width="500"/> </figure> ## PCB Soldering For me, the most time consuming part of soldering was actually finding all the components and understanding the schematic. I had to ask a lot of questions in our section groupchat to figure out what the symbols meant, and how to read the proper values for the resistors and capacitors. I also struggled to find some of the smaller connector components. Eventually, I found them all and had them (mostly) laid out on some double sided tape. <figure><img src="../images/full/02/components.png" width="500"/> </figure> Soldering itself wasn't too bad. It was definitely much smaller components than we had practiced on in section, but the general premise was still the same. I tinned one of the traces first, before anchoring the component to the trace. Then, I would solder the other connections of the component on. I definitely had to pick up and move the board a bunch of times so I was soldering at the most comfortable orientations for me. In general, the soldering was really nice and fun to do, since didn't require that much active thinking/designing. After a night of soldering, I was left with a finally soldered board! <figure><img src="../images/full/02/soldered_board.png" width="500"/> </figure> ## Testing and Programming In the end, we had to bootstrap the USB with a pre-written program just to make sure that our board actually worked and all of the connectiosn were strong. This was a process done by Nathan, as he had the proper board to actually program our PCB boards. First, we had to add some tape to the bottom of the board so that it would fit snugly into the USB connection. <figure><img src="../images/full/02/usb_board.png" width="500"/> </figure> Below is the setup that we had of loading the code onto the PCB board. The shorter board on the right is Nathan's programmer, which is connected to the four-pin connector on my PCB board. Both board are connected to the Mac, which has the Arduino program with the actual code and libraries to recognize my PCB board. <figure><img src="../images/full/02/board_setup.png" width="500"/> </figure> After all of the setup, we just had to check that it worked! We loaded on the code and got a success message (yay!). Finally, we tested that the microcontroller was properly reacting by putting a finger on one of the connections, and seeing the corresponding jump in voltage displayed on the screen. This meant everything was working as expected, and all of the soldered connections worked good enough!