06. COMPUTER CONTROLLED MACHINING
GROUP WORK
Softwares: Fusion 360, Rhino 8, MasterCAM, Illustrator
Devices: CNC milling machine, Routing table, Band saw, Elliptical Sander, and hand tools.
Files: TableandKeyRack.3dm
FIRST ASSEMBLY
POST PROCESSING
FINAL PIECE
CNC AND ROUTING
CAD AND MASTERCAM
TRIALS & TRIBULATIONS
LESSONS LEARNED
A few years back, a friend taking this class made me a table with drips along the edge but I lost it in my most recent move! So for this assignment, I decided to recreate this table in a new way. To start, I used fusion to model my table with drips long the edge and later modeled a simple wall-hanging key or hat rack.

I modeled it to .45” wood thickness.
I then sent the files to Rhino 8 to make my dxf files. I used the Silhouette command to get the outlines of my 3D wood pieces. After getting some feedback from Jen and Chris, I made sure the parts thickness was .43” instead for the joints, and that all my smaller parts such as the hooks and end arms for the key rack were either large enough not to break while CNCing or attached to a larger anchor piece.
Then we sent the files to MasterCam. The only issue we came across was one of the pieces being a surface, which resulted in double lines. But once everything was single lines, we set the 3 tool paths and made sure the end mills were going counterclockwise around the outside of each shape.
The cut took 28 minutes and used up about 70% of the OSB board.
Before
After
Milling Pass 1 - larger end mill
Milling Pass 2 - 1/8th in end mill - Clean up
Drill Pass
Then after shaking off my cut of sawdust and vacuuming a little, I began to clean up my pieces so that I could test the fit. I used the routing table to clean up all edges. It was fun to route along the curves, and was a cool challenge to try to get the smaller edges of things like hooks. I also used a bandsaw to detach connecting pieces and was finally left with cleaner pieces.
All the pieces fit - Yay!!!! The key rack was a little bigger than I expected but I don’t mind.
I sanded each surface with an orbital(?) sander with a 150 grit sheet of sandpaper to smooth the surface for touch as well as for painting, and filled edges for a softer touch.
I then added a layer of white acrylic paint to all pieces. I wet the pieces a tiny bit to allow the paint to spread farther and faster.
Then I sprayed my pieces!! I used a baby pink that I found at Blicks for the top of the tables and drips, and a leftover green spray (it was not enough for all of the side pieces).