How to Make [almost] Anything

Nathan Melenbrink

Molding + Casting

I approached this week's assignment as a chance to experiment with expanded or foamed materials. I've always been interested in porous or aerated concrete, and am interested in the idea of translucent concrete. While typically, air bubbles would be the nemesis of a good cast, my objective was essentially to maximize the amount of air that a castable material could hold, even potentially controlling the density in various regions, while still remaining structurally intact. My hope was that a mixture that reasonably satisfied constraints of lightness, translucency, and structural integrity might be lead to further research on an architectural scale. For this week's assignment I set out to make (another) lamp shade, just to have an object that would require translucency and structural stability.

  • Tools: Makerbot 3D Printer, vacuum.
  • Materials: Hydro-stone, assorted glues
  • Software: Rhino, Makerware
  • Year: 2014

Project 01a
Reference image from http://www.flow3d.com/home/resources/case-studies/metal-casting-case-studies/aluminum-integral-foam-molding-process describing a process for aluminum integral foam modling, where variable density is possible, though this seems to be still very experimental. I figured aluminum integral foam molding might be a bit much for this week, so I chose to work with off-the-shelf casting products and hydrostone.
Project 01b
I decided to use the vacuum chamber we had in the lab as a means of aerating while in the mold. I then set about mixing together a variety of different materials, in a very non-scientific way, with the aim of finding something that would foam in the vacuum and hld its form after being released. I first tried mixing dishsoaps with hydrostone, which made a nice heterogeneous aeration, but of course did not hold its form after being released from the vacuum. Pictured here are mixtures of hydrostone and Elmer's glue on the left, and hydrostone and Gorilla glue on the right.
Project 01b
A sampling of different concoctions and how they wound up after being vacuumed. These were just cast in paper cups (sometimes with another cup inside so as to cast a shell shape. Mixtures were all hydrostone based and included Elmer's glue, Gorilla glue, oomoo, and epoxy.
Project 01b
The molds were designed in Rhino and 3D printed. It would have been ideal to mill in wax and cast oomoo, but there wasn't enough time after all the material studies. Also, I wasn't sure how the oomoo would behave in the vacuum. I first used the more elongated shape the the left, then found it was nearly impossible to remove the cast without them breaking. So I went for a more forgiving dome shape on the right. For both the cavity forms a 5mm shell.
Project 01b
The 3D printed mold is held together with wires that also suspend the interior negative in place. The mixture is poured into the mold and place in the vacuum. I would generally let it sit in the vacuum for about half an hour. The vacuum chamber would start to condense after about 20 minutes (I assume the water was finally being released from the solution) and then I would stop the vacuum shortly afterwards.
Project 01b
A sample of the expoxy hydrostone mix. It seems rather lightweight and still strong in compression. However, when pourse in a thinner shell form, it became quite brittle.
Project 01b
There were still issues with air bubbles preventing the entire mold from being filled evenly. I realized this was a difficult shape to cast and went for a simple dome shell instead.
Project 01b
By this point I had not been able to extract an intact cast from the mold, and the first tests with the dome mold were not successful. However, though in pieces, the process did manage to produce aerated translucent casts.
Project 01b
After programming the board, we noticed some odd behavior. The LED would be off until I pressed the button...though after pressing it again, it wouldn't turn off. Actually, nothing would make the LED turn off, other than removing the FTDI cable. We tried adjusting the code and reprogramming, but nothing seemed to work. So for now I'll have to be satisfied with a board that more or less works, and leave the LED mystery until later.
Project 01b
The broken pieces after being super-glued back together and illuminated from the interior with a red LED.
Project 01b