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Week 8: Molding and Casting
8.1 Introduction
To create our molds this week we were provided 7 in by 3 in by 1.5 in blocks of machinable wax. We would use the same 3-axis Avid ShopBot mill previously described in Week 6. The only difference this week is that we would be machining in three dimensions rather than two. The EECS lab is stocked with short and long 1/4 in and 1/8 in diameter, up cutting, 2-fluke, flat bottom end mills. Therefore, our minimum design clearance would be 1/8th of an inch. Our LA, Anthony, also advised us to maintain a 1/4 in wall thickness of the machinable wax in our mold designs. Unlike 3D printing, a 3-axis milling machine is unable to mill any amount of overhang. I will point out that more advanced milling machines with more axes of freedom can mill overhangs.


8.3 My Design
Sticking with my pump theme I decided to design an impeller for casting this week. Having never created a mold before and being restricted to a 3 in by 7 in by 1.5 in piece of stock, I elected to design an impeller with vanes of zero pitch (i.e., no overhang). To complicate the design slightly and force the use of multiple molds for a single part, I decided to create a closed impeller, which is shown at the far right of the below illustration. Both the open and semi-closed impellers could easily be cast from a single mold.


8.3.1 Computer Modelling
I created my impeller design using Fusion 360. In contrast to most 2-part molds with the mating surface at the bottom of the milled mold, my molds mate at the top surface, which is why the half components are flush with the stock’s top face. Both the intact model of the impeller and mold sections are shown below. The Fusion CAD file is hyperlinked to the mold image.

Note: The four cylinders positioned at each corner of the mold will create holes for bolts and backing plates to hold the mold together.


8.3.2 Tool Path Generation
Using the manufacturing tab in Fusion 360 I generated two tool paths for milling my mold. The first was an adaptive tool path for clearing major portions of stock material. This tool path used a 1/4 in diameter end mill, feed rate of 200 in/min, and fine step down of 0.02 in. The second tool path I generated was a contour to apply the finishing details to the mold. This tool path used a 1/8 in diameter end mill, feed rate of 100 in/min, and fine step down of 0.02 in.


8.5 Casting
Using Smooth-On's Oomoo 25, I created a flexible mold from my rigid wax mold. I started by spending several minutes applying the Oomoo to my wax mold via a paint brush to prevent bubble entrapment along the mold’s surface.

I probably shouldn’t have paused for a photo, because as I approached the Oomoo’s pot life, I experienced significant issues pouring it in a thin stream and getting it to flow across my mold. This forced me to pour Oomoo everywhere across the mold, rather than pouring into a single corner, which resulted in bubble entrapment throughout the Oomoo. Since the Oomoo has already begun to set, there was no amount of agitation that was going to bring bubbles to the surface. I was disappointed with the lumpy appearance of the Oomoo (shown below), especially since it would serve as my mating surface.



Seeing my Oomoo mold gave me both joy and disappointment. Starting with the good news, I had zero bubbles along the casting surface of my mold; I guess taking time to paint on the Oomoo was worth it. However, I did have a ton of bubbles throughout the Oomoo, as expected from my pouring experience, but these would little effect on final casting quality. Moving on to my disappointment, the lighter coloring of the Oomoo made the contour tool paths along the fillet of my model even more evident. I definitely should have incorporated another finishing tool path or made the fine step down smaller.




8.5.1 Mold Assembly
Using nuts, bolts, and acrylic backing plates, I sandwiched my mold sections together. Honestly, this was the first point in the evolution that I realized my mold was not reusable. The mold was going to end up sandwiched between the top and bottom plates of the closed impeller and would have to be broken up in pieces to be removed. I proceed knowing this would be my first and last cast with the mold. I drilled a 1/2 in hole in one of the backing plates to act as both the fill and vent for the mold assembly. I decided to cast my impeller using Smooth-Cast 326 liquid plastic, because it would enable me to drill a shaft hole into the cured impeller.



8.5.2 The Pour
Prior to mixing the liquid plastic I was fully aware of the short pot life and need for supplemental ventilation due to off gassing, but was not prepared to combat the volume of bubbles that formed throughout my cast. No amount of tilting and vibrating was able to remove the continuous formation of bubbles. In hindsight I should have used the EECS vacuum chamber to help remove them.


8.5.3 Final Product
A solid pair of needle nose pliers was essential for removing the inner portions of my Oomoo mold. The acrylic backing plates left an extremely smooth surface finish on the top and bottom of my impeller, but my battle with the bubbles seems to be frozen in time.

Tough to hide bubbles when you cast in clear plastic ......